Marusan Shokudo

Step through the noren curtain at dusk and the evening begins with choosing from the menu slips lining the walls. Marusan Shokudo in Minami-Shinagawa combines the easygoing feel of a set-meal diner with the warmth of a small neighbourhood restaurant. It makes a comfortable place to stop for a drink after work or settle in for dinner on your own.

A bottle of beer and a few small plates make a fitting start: perhaps seasonal sashimi, a light dish of ohitashi, or chawanmushi topped with a dashi-rich sauce. Add aubergine stir-fried with miso, whose full-flavoured seasoning goes well with both drinks and rice, then order the macaroni gratin, a favourite among regulars. Its gently rich, nostalgic Western-style comfort brings a cosy note to the table.

The choices range from fried dishes such as chicken katsu and ebi fry to braised pork belly and a nourishing small dish of mushrooms, all at reasonable prices. Add rice and miso soup to put together a set meal of your own, or take your time over a few snacks with a drink mixed with hot water.

The restaurant opens on weekday evenings from 17:00, and accepts cash only. Unpretentious cooking and homely hospitality make it an inviting place to take a breath at the end of the day.